I’m redoing a trunk that is in very good shape but filthy. The outside appears to be leather-so I plan to use saddle soap & water. The inside & all 4 drawers are covered with cloth- most of which is still in excellent condition. My question is- is it logical to wash the complete trunk gently with soap ,water & a soft brush, hose quickly & let dry in the sun? Then condition the leather? & finish the metal on corners with what? Thanks!
Hello- your website is fantastic, I’m still in the beginning stages. It’s slow going but I’m looking forward to working on it ( http://s765.photobucket.com/albums/xx292/generic_artist/Trunk%20Restoration%20Project/ ) and was wondering if there’s anything that can be done about matching the embossed tin and ornaments (It’s missing 2 of the round ones pictured, and 2 of the handle caps)? I fell in love with the pattern on my grandfather’s old trunk I’m restoring, and I’m nowhere near finished with removing all the black paint it was covered in by a well-meaning relative, but I know that at least on 1 corner where it meets the lid, the edges have torn, or rusted away a bit and unless you can recommend a way to patch, or hide it, I may have to buy new tin- but I would prefer this pattern. Also the ornaments I’ve seen in your, and other shops, are similar, but don’t match- I was thinking of checking out Ebay for parts, but was wondering if there was a better site specifically for this? Thank-you so much! Your store and tips are invaluable, it means a lot to me to be able to do this project myself!
I would only use saddle soap, followed by Neatsfoot oil on leather. Wire brushes, steel wool, etc can be used on hardware. Afterward a sealer coat of poly.
The handle caps are available on the site to match. The embossed tin is not sold and the ornament is only available as a used part. Perhaps Ebay or http://www.muffshardware.com
Jagged edges can be nailed down with a small brad, or replaced with flat tin. Replace as little as possible neatly.
The pattern on the trunk is a geometric pattern, looks very nice with a copper paint, and the raised areas sanded off, follow with a stain wash allover the tin.
I am restoring a child’s trunk and am having trouble removing the paint/ primer that is on the wood strips. It seems to have soaked into the wood. Any suggestions? The strips are in great shape other than that.
To easliy do this remove the slats from the trunk and use a paste form stripper. Follow can directions and the paint should soften and come off. A fine wire brush used on the open grain areas will bring out the paint in them.
#7 by linda miller on September 29, 2011 - 11:06 am
I recently ppurchased a Boone kitchen cabinet. The hardware that allows the porcelain worktop to slide in and out is missing. Is this something that you can help me correct? If not, will you send me in the right direction? Thank you, Linda Lucci Miller
We sell several shapes of cabinet mounting brackets at the site for letting the porcelain top slide in or out. Please visit the website and browse the mounting brackets available. They are in the hardware section, under hoosier cabinet hardware. ( search mounting brackets)
Shenandoah
I dont have an old trunk. I have an oak chest that my son made me in shop class when he was in high school. I want to bind the trunk. I want black leather and peuter ish hardware. Sounds nice. do you have instructions for a project like that or any advice on where to find said information?
Hello, the project is too large to outline here, feel free to call and we are happy to give you instruction in covering the chest in leather.
800-575-1960
Shenandoah
#11 by Kimberly Coulter on October 19, 2011 - 3:28 pm
I just purchased a Mendel Wardrobe trunk that is in fairly good condition but it is filthy dirty. What can I use to clean it without damaging it? Thanks.
i now feel empowered to take on trunk restorations after finding this website. I have two trunks that need work. I believe i will attempt it. So please do expect to hear from me at some point in the near future.
On this trunk you can use almost anything on the outside from soap and water to mineral spirits. However on the inside be very careful as stains can happen easily on the cloth interior if gotten too wet with water. A mild bleach and water solution might work well inside.
Step one completed thanks to your hints. all old nails and tacks were removed. my slats and tin came off easily once you find your nitch. have 3 hours in it thus far. now for canvas removal, sanding, and interior paper removal.
Canvas should strip off with little resistance. Interior paper will need to be sprayed with a vinegar/water solution and it will scrape off easily.
Shenandoah
thanks for the tip..couple questions..have you had any experience in replating the original hardware as far as cost?
the 4 edges of the trunk are covered in old leather i guess but feels like brittle plastic. what can i find to replace this with that would be easy to crease into a 90 degree angle? that will also be sturdy
Replating is expensive, depending on the number of pieces. Plan to pay $50 – $75 for corners, lock, drawbolts, etc.
WE usually either get leather and cover edges or use new tin and paint black. Tin can be bent on 90deg easily and cut to size. Punch the nail holes before you nail into place. Leather is easier to work with, try using contact cement to fix to the corner then nail through for a finished look.
thanks for the input and advice.
I now have a stripped down, plain pine box. no canvas or paper. My canvas was very hard to remove. seemed like it might have been painted before. Ready for sanding and staining now. all together not too bad so far . total time now 5 hours.
I have a Victor Talking machine 1904 VV4-3 95600 victrola. It needs some work, it’s missing the arm that attatches to the needle. Do you have any idea how much it would be to fix and how much it would be worth? Thanks.
Is the complete tonearm missing? or only parts of it?
A complete tonearm can be $100. A reproducer the same amount.
Usually a 4-3 is worth $400-500 if intact.
I have a wardrobe trunk that was damaged by water on the bottom. The outside material has come off up to about a foot on the sides then it is good. What kind of material is this and how can it be fixed.
I will be ordering several resto pieces from you soon. One thing I ‘may’ need is embossed tin (unsure if I can salvage the original). I see you carry some, but that it’s only 9.5″ wide. Do you carry anything larger? The trunk I’m restoring for my wife has embossed tin that’s over 2′ wide and probably 3′ long.
I recently bought a hump back trunk for my wife for Christmas and we were wondering if you might now anything about it. It is in great shape inside and out with some wear and tear on the lining inside. It is also missing the shelf that sits insied it. There is a litte compartment on the inside of the lid there is a old print style picture of what looks like an arab woman. The only markings we can find on the trunk are on the hardware. All of the hardware on the lid has a B T S C stamped in the four corners. Would you happen to know anything about this trunk?
Hi,
I am currently restoring a very large slightly domed trunk which appears to be similar to Saratoga trunks that I have seen on websites. The lock is marked with C. Liebrich, Phila (Conrad Liebrich, original founder of Star Lock Works) and a patent date of 1851. The trunk originally was covered with leather as there is some small pieces still left. From the lock date and the hand forged hardware I believe the trunk to be from the 1860′s. Unfortunately, the trunk was in very bad shape and had a 9″x9″ hole in the dome top and I do not have any wood of similar type (pine) and age (150 years old) to repair the lid with. I wasn’t planning on covering the trunk but refinishing the beautiful 150 year aged pine patina with a light golden oil stain and tung oil. Do you have any suggestions on where I might find a 1/4″ thick aged piece of pine that might match the look of the trunk lid? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and I want you to know that I have found your website and blog to very helpful in the trunks that I have already redone, not to mention the invaluable parts that I have already purchased and will no doubt be purchasing in the future.
Usually the tin is separated under the wood slats. Therefore a solid piece is not needed to cover the trunk. We do not sell a embossed tin sheet wider than 9 1/2″
Thank you! If I were doing this I would scavenge for a panel from a broken down antique piece of furniture. The piece might need to be steamed to get round enough to fit.
Any antique refinisher or restorer probably would have this.
#29 by Sharon Neuner on January 10, 2012 - 4:32 pm
I have a W.W. I chest that my father used when he was in the army. I want to have it completely refinished (new brass fittings, new leather straps, the inside recovered, etc.), but I don’t want to do it myself. Can you recommend any companies/individuals in the Northern Virginia area (Arlington) that could give me an estimate on restoration costs. Thanks.
I am a bit confused on your Kit 1. I understand everything until I get to the leather lift. Which lift goes with Kit 1? SR-1502, SRB-LL02 or SR-1501? Which slat clamp, any of them? Do you get the number of clamps needed for the trunk. I need 6 of them. The victorian artwork. Are these the ones like Fisherwoman, Soldier Boy etc? Was also wondering about the size of the stay. The trunk I’m working on is 34 inches by 17 inches by 14 inches deep. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Hello, our kit #1 and kit #2 contains the handles, handle caps, and 3 sizes of nails only. The lid lifter, lid stay, slat clamps, etc shown on the kits pages are only for one page shopping for other items that you might also need for your trunk restoration. These items are not included in the kits. The Victorian artwork for trunk lids are the ones you listed and others sold on the Tray parts pages at the website. Most antique trunks used the lid stay that matches our S-4830 steel lidstay.
Thank you for visiting our blog. We are always eager to help you decide on your trunk restoration items through our 800#. 800-575-1960
Thanks! You mentioned that you use Rustoleum on the metal parts. Is it the paint or enamel? Also, when I removed the interior paper, beneath it were strips covering the seams between the wood parts of what looked like Ducktape. I removed them, but am wondering if I should replace them and what should I replace them with. Thanks.
We use Rustoleum water based paints, not enamel. The seams are sometimes covered with canvas strips, we put them back to make a more even look to the lining paper.
I’m in the process of putting the metal on the trunk. I purchased aluminum which came white in color. Do I need to take the white off before priming and painting?
I am in the process of restoring 2 cammel back trunks. I made a tray for the missing one, and am wondering if I could stain and finish it instead of covering with paper. I’ve seen some trunks with the wood finished. I plan on using paper in the rest of the trunk because the wood is in poor condition. I use wood filler to fill in cracks and nail holes so not an option to sand and have wood finished there. Also how would I attach leather straps, I have the original strap holders, but the ends of the straps should be attached with nails?
If the wood is a cabinet grade wood, then you can stain and finish it. We usually cover in paper, narrow edges first, the all panels, last the bottom and back.
Leather straps are usually nailed on and the holders put over them.
Leather handles are also nailed on before caps are put on. Unless you are using slotted handles. These are held on by the hardware.
Good Morning,
I am restoring my 3rd antique trunk… We are doing them for our grand kids…to store their childhood memories!
This dome top trunk came with a tray and compartments…we were so happy to see the inside was all there . It is in very good condition for it’s age……but we have a question about the metal that holds the leather handle straps…There are anchors on each side of handles…. Do the anchors hold any meaning as to what the trunk was used for?
The inside is all covered in a wallpaper…so that has to go.
Thanks you,
Paula
We have a trunk from my wife’s father’s family that seems to have a brass covering with wooden slates over it. The brass (?) seems to have been painted. You can see the brass in spots where the paint has worn off. What is the best way to remove the paint without damaging the brass (if that is what it is) underneath it?
Thanks.
From your description it seems your tin trunk has a nickel plating with a gold lacquer over it. It comes off very easily. We usually use a gold or copper paint after removing the lacquer. We put it on thin, in a mottled fashion. We then put a stain glaze over it to tone down the color. It is possible to do this without removing slats, mask the slats with masking tape.
Hello, we can furnish new hardware for the latches, catches, hinges, name plates etc. If you send a picture to the website email ( info@shenandoahrestoration.com)
we can determine if we can help you with the existing hardware.
Having refinished a trunk about 7 years ago (supplies from you) my daughter brought home another one for me to work on. This latest one is in much worse shape as a lot of the tin on the bottom is rusted to flakes. I will replace all the missing rusty tin. Luckily it is not embossed. The canvas was also in very poor condition so I elected to strip it completely. I am now ready to reapply the canvas. On your website you recommended Elmer’s glue. Would any carpenters glue work OK? Do you apply it to the entire surface?
As well I have one broken hinge. I do not see it on the parts images. Do you have others?
Hello, first the trunk needs all hardware and slats to be off, because new canvas needs to go up under the parts. Canvas shrinks when glued and will show if just put up to the edges. We use white Elmers, thinned with water. It is thinner and less costly than carpenters glue. Paint the wood white before installing canvas, this will make a brighter look and a clean surface that can not bleed through the canvas at knots, etc. Paint the glue on after cutting the canvas to size and smooth down on the painted wood. Do one section at a time.
We always seal the canvas with water based polyurethane for a washable surface. Be careful not to get the canvas dirty from your hands while installing, if useing white canvas. Using rubber gloves is a good idea.
Thank you for your input. I do have the bottom completely stripped of all slats and hardware. I actually had to replace a few boards due to water damage and splitting. I thought that since I was that far I should start with a sound structure. From you post I guess since I have ample carpenters glue it won’t be an issue. If the canvas is going to be painted (probably black) is it necessary to paint the wood first?
It is also very hard to find any 30 gauge tin. Have you tried any aluminum flashing?
#1 by Liz on August 29, 2011 - 10:16 am
Quote
I’m redoing a trunk that is in very good shape but filthy. The outside appears to be leather-so I plan to use saddle soap & water. The inside & all 4 drawers are covered with cloth- most of which is still in excellent condition. My question is- is it logical to wash the complete trunk gently with soap ,water & a soft brush, hose quickly & let dry in the sun? Then condition the leather? & finish the metal on corners with what? Thanks!
#2 by Kat on September 10, 2011 - 9:05 am
Quote
Hello- your website is fantastic, I’m still in the beginning stages. It’s slow going but I’m looking forward to working on it ( http://s765.photobucket.com/albums/xx292/generic_artist/Trunk%20Restoration%20Project/ ) and was wondering if there’s anything that can be done about matching the embossed tin and ornaments (It’s missing 2 of the round ones pictured, and 2 of the handle caps)? I fell in love with the pattern on my grandfather’s old trunk I’m restoring, and I’m nowhere near finished with removing all the black paint it was covered in by a well-meaning relative, but I know that at least on 1 corner where it meets the lid, the edges have torn, or rusted away a bit and unless you can recommend a way to patch, or hide it, I may have to buy new tin- but I would prefer this pattern. Also the ornaments I’ve seen in your, and other shops, are similar, but don’t match- I was thinking of checking out Ebay for parts, but was wondering if there was a better site specifically for this? Thank-you so much! Your store and tips are invaluable, it means a lot to me to be able to do this project myself!
#3 by Administrator on September 10, 2011 - 8:44 pm
Quote
I would only use saddle soap, followed by Neatsfoot oil on leather. Wire brushes, steel wool, etc can be used on hardware. Afterward a sealer coat of poly.
#4 by Administrator on September 10, 2011 - 8:50 pm
Quote
The handle caps are available on the site to match. The embossed tin is not sold and the ornament is only available as a used part. Perhaps Ebay or http://www.muffshardware.com
Jagged edges can be nailed down with a small brad, or replaced with flat tin. Replace as little as possible neatly.
The pattern on the trunk is a geometric pattern, looks very nice with a copper paint, and the raised areas sanded off, follow with a stain wash allover the tin.
#5 by Rhonda on September 14, 2011 - 10:07 am
Quote
I am restoring a child’s trunk and am having trouble removing the paint/ primer that is on the wood strips. It seems to have soaked into the wood. Any suggestions? The strips are in great shape other than that.
#6 by Administrator on September 15, 2011 - 6:26 am
Quote
To easliy do this remove the slats from the trunk and use a paste form stripper. Follow can directions and the paint should soften and come off. A fine wire brush used on the open grain areas will bring out the paint in them.
#7 by linda miller on September 29, 2011 - 11:06 am
Quote
I recently ppurchased a Boone kitchen cabinet. The hardware that allows the porcelain worktop to slide in and out is missing. Is this something that you can help me correct? If not, will you send me in the right direction? Thank you, Linda Lucci Miller
#8 by Administrator on September 29, 2011 - 7:17 pm
Quote
We sell several shapes of cabinet mounting brackets at the site for letting the porcelain top slide in or out. Please visit the website and browse the mounting brackets available. They are in the hardware section, under hoosier cabinet hardware. ( search mounting brackets)
Shenandoah
#9 by Gail Benjamin on October 2, 2011 - 4:38 pm
Quote
I dont have an old trunk. I have an oak chest that my son made me in shop class when he was in high school. I want to bind the trunk. I want black leather and peuter ish hardware. Sounds nice. do you have instructions for a project like that or any advice on where to find said information?
#10 by Administrator on October 3, 2011 - 8:30 pm
Quote
Hello, the project is too large to outline here, feel free to call and we are happy to give you instruction in covering the chest in leather.
800-575-1960
Shenandoah
#11 by Kimberly Coulter on October 19, 2011 - 3:28 pm
Quote
I just purchased a Mendel Wardrobe trunk that is in fairly good condition but it is filthy dirty. What can I use to clean it without damaging it? Thanks.
#12 by Aaron on October 19, 2011 - 8:25 pm
Quote
i now feel empowered to take on trunk restorations after finding this website. I have two trunks that need work. I believe i will attempt it. So please do expect to hear from me at some point in the near future.
#13 by Administrator on October 20, 2011 - 6:03 am
Quote
On this trunk you can use almost anything on the outside from soap and water to mineral spirits. However on the inside be very careful as stains can happen easily on the cloth interior if gotten too wet with water. A mild bleach and water solution might work well inside.
#14 by Administrator on October 20, 2011 - 6:04 am
Quote
Thank you for this comment. We have a Hints page at the site and also a Book on restoring trunks is available on the hardware pages.
#15 by Aaron on October 21, 2011 - 3:09 pm
Quote
Step one completed thanks to your hints. all old nails and tacks were removed. my slats and tin came off easily once you find your nitch. have 3 hours in it thus far. now for canvas removal, sanding, and interior paper removal.
#16 by Administrator on October 21, 2011 - 4:44 pm
Quote
Canvas should strip off with little resistance. Interior paper will need to be sprayed with a vinegar/water solution and it will scrape off easily.
Shenandoah
#17 by Aaron on October 21, 2011 - 6:48 pm
Quote
thanks for the tip..couple questions..have you had any experience in replating the original hardware as far as cost?
the 4 edges of the trunk are covered in old leather i guess but feels like brittle plastic. what can i find to replace this with that would be easy to crease into a 90 degree angle? that will also be sturdy
#18 by Administrator on October 21, 2011 - 6:55 pm
Quote
Replating is expensive, depending on the number of pieces. Plan to pay $50 – $75 for corners, lock, drawbolts, etc.
WE usually either get leather and cover edges or use new tin and paint black. Tin can be bent on 90deg easily and cut to size. Punch the nail holes before you nail into place. Leather is easier to work with, try using contact cement to fix to the corner then nail through for a finished look.
#19 by Aaron on October 23, 2011 - 3:23 pm
Quote
thanks for the input and advice.
I now have a stripped down, plain pine box. no canvas or paper. My canvas was very hard to remove. seemed like it might have been painted before. Ready for sanding and staining now. all together not too bad so far . total time now 5 hours.
#20 by Donna on October 28, 2011 - 7:15 pm
Quote
I have a Victor Talking machine 1904 VV4-3 95600 victrola. It needs some work, it’s missing the arm that attatches to the needle. Do you have any idea how much it would be to fix and how much it would be worth? Thanks.
#21 by Administrator on October 28, 2011 - 8:20 pm
Quote
Is the complete tonearm missing? or only parts of it?
A complete tonearm can be $100. A reproducer the same amount.
Usually a 4-3 is worth $400-500 if intact.
#22 by Earl on October 31, 2011 - 11:47 am
Quote
I have a wardrobe trunk that was damaged by water on the bottom. The outside material has come off up to about a foot on the sides then it is good. What kind of material is this and how can it be fixed.
#23 by Tracy on November 2, 2011 - 3:14 am
Quote
I will be ordering several resto pieces from you soon. One thing I ‘may’ need is embossed tin (unsure if I can salvage the original). I see you carry some, but that it’s only 9.5″ wide. Do you carry anything larger? The trunk I’m restoring for my wife has embossed tin that’s over 2′ wide and probably 3′ long.
#24 by David M on December 4, 2011 - 7:33 am
Quote
I recently bought a hump back trunk for my wife for Christmas and we were wondering if you might now anything about it. It is in great shape inside and out with some wear and tear on the lining inside. It is also missing the shelf that sits insied it. There is a litte compartment on the inside of the lid there is a old print style picture of what looks like an arab woman. The only markings we can find on the trunk are on the hardware. All of the hardware on the lid has a B T S C stamped in the four corners. Would you happen to know anything about this trunk?
#25 by Steve M on December 25, 2011 - 12:29 am
Quote
Hi,
I am currently restoring a very large slightly domed trunk which appears to be similar to Saratoga trunks that I have seen on websites. The lock is marked with C. Liebrich, Phila (Conrad Liebrich, original founder of Star Lock Works) and a patent date of 1851. The trunk originally was covered with leather as there is some small pieces still left. From the lock date and the hand forged hardware I believe the trunk to be from the 1860′s. Unfortunately, the trunk was in very bad shape and had a 9″x9″ hole in the dome top and I do not have any wood of similar type (pine) and age (150 years old) to repair the lid with. I wasn’t planning on covering the trunk but refinishing the beautiful 150 year aged pine patina with a light golden oil stain and tung oil. Do you have any suggestions on where I might find a 1/4″ thick aged piece of pine that might match the look of the trunk lid? Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and I want you to know that I have found your website and blog to very helpful in the trunks that I have already redone, not to mention the invaluable parts that I have already purchased and will no doubt be purchasing in the future.
#26 by Administrator on December 26, 2011 - 7:14 pm
Quote
Usually the tin is separated under the wood slats. Therefore a solid piece is not needed to cover the trunk. We do not sell a embossed tin sheet wider than 9 1/2″
#27 by Administrator on December 26, 2011 - 7:37 pm
Quote
Most antique trunks had a Victorian lady print in the lid. The BTSC doesnt reference any where. I am afraid I do not know any specifics on this trunk.
#28 by Administrator on December 26, 2011 - 7:41 pm
Quote
Thank you! If I were doing this I would scavenge for a panel from a broken down antique piece of furniture. The piece might need to be steamed to get round enough to fit.
Any antique refinisher or restorer probably would have this.
#29 by Sharon Neuner on January 10, 2012 - 4:32 pm
Quote
I have a W.W. I chest that my father used when he was in the army. I want to have it completely refinished (new brass fittings, new leather straps, the inside recovered, etc.), but I don’t want to do it myself. Can you recommend any companies/individuals in the Northern Virginia area (Arlington) that could give me an estimate on restoration costs. Thanks.
#30 by John Slaba on January 11, 2012 - 2:01 pm
Quote
I am a bit confused on your Kit 1. I understand everything until I get to the leather lift. Which lift goes with Kit 1? SR-1502, SRB-LL02 or SR-1501? Which slat clamp, any of them? Do you get the number of clamps needed for the trunk. I need 6 of them. The victorian artwork. Are these the ones like Fisherwoman, Soldier Boy etc? Was also wondering about the size of the stay. The trunk I’m working on is 34 inches by 17 inches by 14 inches deep. Any suggestions?
Thanks
#31 by Administrator on January 11, 2012 - 2:31 pm
Quote
Hello, our kit #1 and kit #2 contains the handles, handle caps, and 3 sizes of nails only. The lid lifter, lid stay, slat clamps, etc shown on the kits pages are only for one page shopping for other items that you might also need for your trunk restoration. These items are not included in the kits. The Victorian artwork for trunk lids are the ones you listed and others sold on the Tray parts pages at the website. Most antique trunks used the lid stay that matches our S-4830 steel lidstay.
Thank you for visiting our blog. We are always eager to help you decide on your trunk restoration items through our 800#. 800-575-1960
#32 by John Slaba on January 22, 2012 - 10:18 pm
Quote
Hi
was wondering whether to paint the tin first and then attach to the trunk or attach and then paint. What procedure would work best?
#33 by Administrator on January 23, 2012 - 11:01 am
Quote
If the tin is removed it is easier to paint before attaching, however you probably will have to touch it up a few places after all work is done.
#34 by John Slaba on January 23, 2012 - 12:28 pm
Quote
Thanks! You mentioned that you use Rustoleum on the metal parts. Is it the paint or enamel? Also, when I removed the interior paper, beneath it were strips covering the seams between the wood parts of what looked like Ducktape. I removed them, but am wondering if I should replace them and what should I replace them with. Thanks.
#35 by Administrator on January 24, 2012 - 7:55 pm
Quote
We use Rustoleum water based paints, not enamel. The seams are sometimes covered with canvas strips, we put them back to make a more even look to the lining paper.
#36 by John Slaba on February 1, 2012 - 7:59 am
Quote
I’m in the process of putting the metal on the trunk. I purchased aluminum which came white in color. Do I need to take the white off before priming and painting?
#37 by Administrator on February 1, 2012 - 8:13 am
Quote
I am not sure what the white color is, it is safer to sand the white coating to remove any gloss and then prime. Perhaps removal isnt necessary.
#38 by Germaine Binns on February 14, 2012 - 2:25 pm
Quote
I am in the process of restoring 2 cammel back trunks. I made a tray for the missing one, and am wondering if I could stain and finish it instead of covering with paper. I’ve seen some trunks with the wood finished. I plan on using paper in the rest of the trunk because the wood is in poor condition. I use wood filler to fill in cracks and nail holes so not an option to sand and have wood finished there. Also how would I attach leather straps, I have the original strap holders, but the ends of the straps should be attached with nails?
#39 by Administrator on February 14, 2012 - 9:04 pm
Quote
If the wood is a cabinet grade wood, then you can stain and finish it. We usually cover in paper, narrow edges first, the all panels, last the bottom and back.
Leather straps are usually nailed on and the holders put over them.
Leather handles are also nailed on before caps are put on. Unless you are using slotted handles. These are held on by the hardware.
Shenandoah Restoration
#40 by Paula on February 16, 2012 - 10:06 am
Quote
Good Morning,
I am restoring my 3rd antique trunk… We are doing them for our grand kids…to store their childhood memories!
This dome top trunk came with a tray and compartments…we were so happy to see the inside was all there . It is in very good condition for it’s age……but we have a question about the metal that holds the leather handle straps…There are anchors on each side of handles…. Do the anchors hold any meaning as to what the trunk was used for?
The inside is all covered in a wallpaper…so that has to go.
Thanks you,
Paula
#41 by John Slaba on March 1, 2012 - 8:30 pm
Quote
Gary
What kind of canvas is used when the old canvas is beyond repair? Do you use a canvas tarp kind or would a heavy duck cloth work as well?
John
#42 by Administrator on March 1, 2012 - 9:39 pm
Quote
We use 4 oz duck cloth, it is the same thickness as most trunks canvas. It does shrink when used with water based glue, so watch out for that.
#43 by Tom Clark on March 3, 2012 - 12:20 pm
Quote
We have a trunk from my wife’s father’s family that seems to have a brass covering with wooden slates over it. The brass (?) seems to have been painted. You can see the brass in spots where the paint has worn off. What is the best way to remove the paint without damaging the brass (if that is what it is) underneath it?
Thanks.
#44 by Administrator on March 5, 2012 - 8:46 am
Quote
From your description it seems your tin trunk has a nickel plating with a gold lacquer over it. It comes off very easily. We usually use a gold or copper paint after removing the lacquer. We put it on thin, in a mottled fashion. We then put a stain glaze over it to tone down the color. It is possible to do this without removing slats, mask the slats with masking tape.
#45 by Administrator on March 5, 2012 - 8:49 am
Quote
I do not know of any significance of the anchors casted into the caps. Im sure it was an indication of the manufacturer.
#46 by Donna on March 27, 2012 - 10:30 am
Quote
I am refinishing an old wooden ice box. The hardware needs restoring. Any suggestions? Is this something you do?
#47 by Administrator on March 27, 2012 - 8:27 pm
Quote
Hello, we can furnish new hardware for the latches, catches, hinges, name plates etc. If you send a picture to the website email ( info@shenandoahrestoration.com)
we can determine if we can help you with the existing hardware.
#48 by Glenn on April 10, 2012 - 1:33 pm
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Having refinished a trunk about 7 years ago (supplies from you) my daughter brought home another one for me to work on. This latest one is in much worse shape as a lot of the tin on the bottom is rusted to flakes. I will replace all the missing rusty tin. Luckily it is not embossed. The canvas was also in very poor condition so I elected to strip it completely. I am now ready to reapply the canvas. On your website you recommended Elmer’s glue. Would any carpenters glue work OK? Do you apply it to the entire surface?
As well I have one broken hinge. I do not see it on the parts images. Do you have others?
Thanks for your help.
#49 by Administrator on April 10, 2012 - 9:05 pm
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Hello, first the trunk needs all hardware and slats to be off, because new canvas needs to go up under the parts. Canvas shrinks when glued and will show if just put up to the edges. We use white Elmers, thinned with water. It is thinner and less costly than carpenters glue. Paint the wood white before installing canvas, this will make a brighter look and a clean surface that can not bleed through the canvas at knots, etc. Paint the glue on after cutting the canvas to size and smooth down on the painted wood. Do one section at a time.
We always seal the canvas with water based polyurethane for a washable surface. Be careful not to get the canvas dirty from your hands while installing, if useing white canvas. Using rubber gloves is a good idea.
Shenandoah
#50 by Glenn on April 11, 2012 - 9:32 am
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Thank you for your input. I do have the bottom completely stripped of all slats and hardware. I actually had to replace a few boards due to water damage and splitting. I thought that since I was that far I should start with a sound structure. From you post I guess since I have ample carpenters glue it won’t be an issue. If the canvas is going to be painted (probably black) is it necessary to paint the wood first?
It is also very hard to find any 30 gauge tin. Have you tried any aluminum flashing?
Thanks for your help.
Glenn